Quality Abounds on the Mound at La Motte
Experience 4.0 Franschhoek Wine 4.0

Quality Abounds on the Mound at La Motte

LA MOTTE WINE ESTATE
22 June 2017
https://www.la-motte.com/

Experience: 4/5
Wines: 4/5

Franschhoek vineyards have long been under-represented in my tastings. I was very much reminded me of so as I passed signs to big named wineries such as Babylonstoren, Rupert and Rothschild, Vrede en Lust, Allée Bleue, Solms-Delta, Anthonij Rupert, La Chataigne and Le Manoir de Brendel en route to La Motte. It’s just happened that way and not because of any British mistrust of the French. Concentration on my home Constantia Valley area, the Elgin and Hemel-en-Aarde Valley wine estates for the Society tasting in May, and a trip to Wacky Wines Weekend in Robertson, hasn’t helped. My wine adventure today made up for a little of this shortfall.

The Courtyard

I was at La Motte for the morning Shiraz Experience. I have written separately about this informative and fascinating specialist tasting by cellar-master Edmund Terblanche. I thought about returning to La Motte at a later date to visit more local vineyards today but decided against. It made more sense to complete my tasting of the range while at La Motte. After all, I had tasted some of their wines already.

Winter seemed a little deeper as I arrived. Grey clouds hung swollen in the sky as if aching to release their burden of moisture. The vines either side of the entrance road – flanked by grand arched white walls complete with classic lettering beneath a red shield – were struggling too, to hold onto their orange decaying leaves. I passed the imposing 4 metre high bronze sculpture, ‘The Wine Bearer’, made by Toby Megan from Knysna. Usually overflowing to symbolize abundance, the goblet was dry – a sign of the chronic water shortage in the Cape that the clouds were so willing to lessen.

The meaning of La Motte puzzled for some time and had occupied my mind as I drove from Cape Town. Many English words are derived from ancient or old French and I was sure of a translation if only I could think of one. The nearest I could think was of a medieval ‘motte-and-bailey’ castle that was introduced to England when the Normans invaded from France in 1066. A fortified castle tower was built on a raised earthwork mound or ‘motte’ that was surrounded by an enclosed courtyard (or bailey) and surrounded by a ditch and palisade. The ditch was frequently flooded, hence the origin of the word ‘moat’.

I parked beside trees and made my way to the entrance building. Several rows of sample cultivars – 16 varieties to be precise – distracted me, each with a handy descriptor sign. I had recently seen a similar exhibit at Bon Courage in Robertson and shall make a note to myself to visit next year just before harvest. The entrance building led though to an inner courtyard that enclosed the Farm Shop and the sumptuous Pierneef Restaurant – named after the celebrated South African artist Jacob Pierneef (1886-1957) renowned for his landscape paintings – that specialises in traditional Cape Wineland cuisine with a modern twist.

The Moat

I didn’t visit either but made my way to the Tasting Room for the Shiraz event. The path led over a bridge over water to the elevated Cellar building. Originally, this would have been a drawbridge but this was fixed. My thesis was however right as the moat was crossed. I read after that the La Motte estate is thought to have been named after the French village of La Motte d’Aigues, in the Provence region in Southern France. Several Huguenots left the village for South Africa in 1688, some 60 years before Huguenot Gabriël du Toit planted the first 4,000 vines on the property.

The 170 hectare farm today has 75 hectares under vine, with 35 hectares of the remainder under conservation. Most of the major cultivars are grown on the Franschhoek estate (Merlot, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon). La Motte is well known for sourcing grapes from affiliated family-owned farms in other climatic regions, mainly the Elim and Walker Walker Bay areas. It nonetheless surprised, given the reputation for high quality Shiraz and Shiraz blends, that 70% of wines produced were white.

The Tasting Room was decorated in classic, elegant and unfussy French style. Open, airy and well-lit, copy medieval tapestries hung from the walls. I half expected to see a replica part of the Bayeux tapestry depicting King Harold being killed and defeated by an arrow in his eye. The Room was flanked by the picture-postcard maturation Cellar. Wide-arched Baroque-style ceilings rose above symmetrical rows of barrels laid out to the nearest millimetre.

The Castle Mound

My sommelier was Wanneke – “Anneke with a W”, she explained as I tried to spell and write down. Here was the Afrikaans that gave Franschhoek its name as the ‘French Corner’. I had sampled the Brut MCC on my arrival for the Shiraz event which was just as well as it was not included on the tasting menu. Served at just the right temperature and in an elegant flute glass, it was both refreshing and elegant. Medium gold in colour, the fine bubbles gave classic mousse tingly mouthfeel with a shy but lingering taste of apple, citrus and pear.

La Motte wines are grouped in 4 ranges each containing a few products. I sampled from each: the easy-drinking La Motte Collection; the single variety Classic Collection; the limited supply premium Pierneef Collection; and the hand-harvested, exceptional quality Hanneli R (not for general tasting but included in the Shiraz Experience). I chose a Sauvignon Blanc from the entry and premium level collections to compare to start. I enjoyed both and scored the Pierneef wine a point above its junior La Motte cousin. The wines were a classic very pale watery straw in appearance, well-balanced and clean on the palate. The La Motte – from one of a staggering 700,000 bottles – had herbaceous, grassy, gooseberry and citrus flavours. By contrast, the flagship 10,000 bottle Pierneef showed greater complexity of flavour – less herbaceous but more warmer citrus, melon, light pineapple – together with a firmer follow-though and lingering finish. Costing R120 compared to R70 a bottle, the Pierneef offered great value for money for the quality.

The Classic Chardonnay was my favourite wine and I bought a bottle. It was one of the palest in appearance I have seen, with 11 months maturation in 2nd/3rd fill French oak barrels adding little to the very pale straw colour. It had superb complexity on both the nose and palate. Distinct stewed apple Chardonnay aromas were instantly recognisable, layered with light apricot, nectarine and caramel to lure the drinker. Warmer flavours – pineapple and peach – emerged in the mouth for a dry, lengthy finish.

Wanneke was keen I tasted the La Motte Millennium, a Merlot-led Bordeaux blend unusually without Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromatic cedar and red berry to cassis notes of the Merlot showed through to make for a very pleasant, drinkable wine with smooth, dry tannins. I also liked the more muscular but less complex Cabernet Sauvignon from the Classic Collection. It had a good mix of dark plum, mulberry and dark cherry flavours that made it fruitier than the Millennium. The tannins were smoother than I expected for the vintage (15 months in 1st/2nd fill oak) but the finish was a disappointing moderate in length.

I had tasted the Classic Syrah earlier during the Shiraz Experience. I include them here too for the completeness of this tasting review. It was all that I would expect of a Syrah, or rather Shiraz made in a Rhône style. The wine was restrained with delicate cassis, mulberry and white peppercorn flavours and a dry, meaty palate. I preferred the Syrah Viognier from the Pierneef Collection. The added Viognier (6%) amplified and brought out warmer and sweeter fruit and spice flavours, of violets too, that fed thought to a balanced palate.

The 2012 Hanneli R, a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Petit Syrah, and priced at a heady R1,100 a bottle has not been released for sale yet and was not for general tasting, The estate motto ‘A culture of excellence’ well suits the wine. Matured in new wood for 40 months and not released for at least 4 years after harvesting, the individual cultivar components perfectly balanced in complexity of flavour: dark spiced fruit from the Shiraz; lighter red berry and spice from the Grenache; high tannin and body from the Petit Syrah. The dry acidity, fruit and tannin harmoniously balanced for a smooth, lengthy palate.

The End

A visit to the La Motte estate was long overdue and I was pleased to have had the excuse – the Shiraz Experience – to have put it right. I spent almost half a day here. I hadn’t even visited the 4 mid- to late-18th century Provincial (previously National) Monuments: the Manor House, the Jonkershuis, the Historic Cellar and the Water Mill. There’s much more besides, not only the Restaurant and Museum but Historic and Organic Walks together with a Hiking trail. These, together with the exemplar cultivar collection, give me excuse to return again within 6 months.

I came and enjoyed for the wines. I have commented previously how some of the historic, grand ‘vinotourism’ wineries lose their focus on the winemaking due to recreational or other activities. Meerendal, Constantia Uitsig and Avontuur come to mind, though Groot Constantia – despite the hordes of red bus tourists – surprised by the quality of the wines. La Motte fell into the latter category. The ‘culture of excellence’ indeed shone though the grey clouds above.

Wines tasted (* bought):

Sparkling:

2014 Brut Vintage MCC (52% Pinot Noir, 48% Chardonnay) – R320

White:

2016 La Motte Sauvignon Blanc – R70
2016 La Motte Pierneef Sauvignon Blanc – R250
2016 La Motte Classic Chardonnay – R120* FAVOURITE WINE

Red:

2013 La Motte Classic Syrah – R140
2015 La Motte Pierneef Syrah Viognier (94% Syrah, 6% Viognier) – R250
2012 La Motte Pierneef Hanneli R (60% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 10% Petit Syrah) – R1 ,100 Not yet released
2015 La Motte Millennium (56% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, 6% Malbec) – R80
2015 La Motte Classic Cabernet Sauvignon – R120

You Might Also Like

Cabsolutely Frankulous at the Carnival

Late at Lateganskop

Multi-Faceted Wines on Display at the Vineyard

Lust-ful Reds in the Vineyard

All is Not Lost in a Safe Port

Posh Spice in Franschhoek!

Elegant Wines Kiss the Lips in the Vineyard

Fun(ny) Times at Lourensford

Taint, Mould, Sweet-Sour, Elastoplast, Stale Honey, Bee Wax and Potato Skin With the Wine Prof

Linga-ring in a Winery in Malawi

More-ish Wines at Môreson

Tram-Way to Heaven in Franschhoek

Four Partners (not Cousins) at the Vineyard Hotel

Onderkloof Beats All the Odds Below The Valley

Sweet and Safe Times Pair Well with the Whales

SMV, SMG, GSM – BLICS and PAPERCLIPS!

At the Bend in the Road in Bot River

Mutual Attraction

Slave to the Rhythm at Solms-Delta

Wines Out of the Barrel at Kanonkop

More than Just a Destination

Rustic Charm at the Altydgedacht Wine Farm

Speed Tasting with Sommelier ‘Royalty’ at my First SASA Meeting

Lithos Wines Soar above Mountain and Forest

On Yonder Hill There Stands a Vineyard!

Excelsior Blends Quality with Price

Baby Thrown Out with the Bath Water?

In the Vineyard with Beyerskloof

Maiden Visit to Lord’s Bowled Me Over

No Black Marks at Raka

Verticle Tasting on the Ridge in Elgin

Blaauwklippen was Good for a Friday

Summer Whites …… and Rosés

Wine on the Slopes at Chamonix

Trading Wines in the City Bowl

It’s all Art and Wine at Almenkerk

Sa-Bot-Riveur!

Purring at the Wines in Tyger Valley

Family Fun in Pairs at Four Cousins

British Reserve and Excellence at Sumaridge

The Phoenix Rises from the Terroir at Thelema

Mooi Mooi Mooi Mooiplaas

Sugar and Spice is Twice as Nice

Rickety Tram Passengers at Rickety Bridge

Blush-endal!

Iona Wines Remain Excellent In and At the Vineyard

Rijk Tulbagh Gives Name to Cellar and Town

House Wine from the Wine Tram

More Still at Tanagra

K-eynote W-ines at the V-ineyard

Altitudes with Wine!

A Myth, a Princess, History and Destruction, 2 Names and 4 Styles – Shiraz with Pizzazz

The Garagiste in the Garage at Sonklip!

Groot Phesantekraal an Unexpected Surprise!

Serenity without Worry or Preoccupation in the Chapel

Grape Expectations are Met at Zevenwacht

Haven Rather than Heaven at La Bri

Bon Courage and Bon Voyage

Mixed Spice at the Pinotage Festival

Saxenburg Puts Heart, Mind and Soul into Its Wines

Warwick Wines Win their Colours

Wine Notes Composed at D’Aria

Franschhoek’s Hidden Gem Is Reluctant to Reveal

Quality with Style in the Vineyard

Waxing Lyrical about Canto

Vista to Verdot at Glen Carlou

Wines Merely to Lust After

Kosie Wynes at Groenland

Mulderbosch didn’t quite Meet the Yardstick

From Palette to Palate to Muratie

Barrels of Fun at My First Stellenbosch Street Soirée

The Big Easy Tee’s Off in the Vineyard

Iconic Steenberg

Cabernet Franc – Well Worth a Gamble!

Perfection is Attainable at Boschkloof Wines

Bracing Brakes on the Red Wines at Remhoogte

It’s High Time Again

Wacky – not Tacky – in Robertson

Boutique de Brendel

Clouds Reign in Stellenbosch

The Gods Come Home to the Vineyard

The Vineyard Hotel a Classic Vehicle to Showcase L’Ormarins Wines

Wines to Love on Love Street

Water into Wine at Uitkyk

Malverne Dis-Clos-ed

How Do You Grow a Vineyard Like Maria?

PicknPay Pairs it again at the Stellenbosch Wine Festival

Beyond Expectation

Shiraz Purrs at Manley Wine Lodge

Neil’s Vines on the Tr-Ellis in Stellenbosch

Tasting Vines at the Vineyard

Of Female Rugby Players and Ballet Dancers! Let’s Continuously Study Very Seriously: Wines of the Loire and Northern Rhône

Where’s the Grande in Provence?

iWine rather than IMAX at the Cape Gate Mall

Magical Wines Star at Dragonridge

Bellville to Bellevue to Belle Wines

Swiss Family Sauvignons at Eikendal

Honest, Affordable Family Wines at Landskroon

Peace but No Rest at Rust en Vrede

Big Preparations in the Little Vineyard

Allez les Boks – Pas les Bleues!

On the Left, but then on the Right …

Straw Berry Yields for e-Ver-gelegen

Masses of Fun and a little Chaos at the Ambeloui Harvest Festival

Well Hosted and Enjoyable – Even Though I did not Experience at its Best

Seven Reasons To Visit Seven Oaks Wines

Class in Glass at Glenelly

Wines That Don’t Cost The Earth

Taking the Garage into the Classroom

Family Fun at the Greek Harvest Festival

In the Garage in the Heart of McGregor

Grand Wines at the Big Top!

Around the (Old) World in 18 Hours – starting with the European Cuvée!

One Day, Three Tastings, Five Wines and Seven Sisters

Heaven Meets Earth at Bouchard Finlayson

Great Value in the Swartland

Noble Wines without the Rot

The Terroir is Honoured in the Bottle at Springfield

Beau-tiful Beau-tique Beau-Constantia

Sax ‘n’ Berg at the Vineyard

A Warm Welcome in the Cool Climate at South Hill

Better than a Fair View Where the Goats do Roam!

Dreaming of a Wine Christmas

Value for Money from Angel Gabriel in the Vineyard

A Family Occasion – the Story behind the Bottle

Au Revoir France!

Pastures Anew at Rustenberg

The Darling from Darling Steps into the Vineyard

Red Chair in the Morning

Oh-MG at Anthonij Rupert

In the Highlands in the Lowlands of Elgin

Nala Wines are Well Engineered in the Vineyard

Wagons to the Cellar at Waboomsrivier

5 Comments

  1. Straw Berry Wine for e-Ver …. -gelegen – Cape Wine Lovers Society

    […] a Library of ancient and modern books located in the original winery that was built in 1816. Like La Motte Estate, Groot Constantia Estate and Solms-Delta Wines, one needs the best part of a day for the full […]

  2. Fun(ny) Times at Lourensford – Cape Wine Lovers Society

    […] current fashion for ‘vinotourism’ as have other vineyards like Boschendal, Groot Constantia, La Motte, Meerendal, Solms-Delta and Vergelegen. The many visitor attractions mean that a whole day is […]

  3. Perfection is Attainable at Boschkloof Wines – Cape Wine Lovers' Society

    […] Syrah next that likewise showed its class. It did not surprise that Jacques was the Winemaker at La Motte from 1985 to 2003. The wine was a deep ruby to purple in colour and had an intriguing, inviting and […]

  4. More-ish Wines at Môreson – Cape Wine Lovers' Society

    […] waited 7 months until veraison to take reference cultivar photos of the rows of exemplar grapes at La Motte. I had previously tasted and reviewed the La Motte wines, and also attended their specialist Shiraz […]

  5. March Book Review – Good in Appearance, Consistent Complexity and Undeveloped Structure – Cape Wine Lovers' Society

    […] mentioned under Chardonnay, Paul Cluver for Riesling, Delaire Graff for Cabernet Sauvignon or La Motte for Shiraz. I’d like also to have seen more than a single entry for Gewürztraminer, Grenache and […]

Leave a Reply

Your e-mail address will not be published. Required fields are marked *